Battery Tender 021-0128 Battery Tender Plus 12V Battery Charger



Battery Tender 021-0128 Battery Tender Plus 12V Battery Charger

Battery Tender 021-0128 Battery Tender Plus 12V Battery Charger








Tuesday, November 6, 2012

How to Recondition a Battery - Sulfation is the Enemy of Lead-Acid Type Batteries

How to Recondition a Battery - Sulfation is the Enemy of Lead-Acid Type Batteries


If you're like most of us, you know how much of an expense and inconvenience a dead battery can be.  By the time you pay for a tow truck to come and boost  or replace your battery, plus any lost earnings that you may have incurred, you can see that the costs quickly add up.  And while being able to recondition a dead battery may not solve your immediate problems,  it can definitely eliminate the expense of buying a new battery.  Plus, if you're so inclined, you can turn it into a very profitable business.  And the best part is that it's very easy and inexpensive.


http://farm8.static.flickr.com/7161/6790468271_3e85ce1a0e_m.jpg

How to Recondition a Battery - Sulfation is the Enemy of Lead-Acid Type Batteries


Automotive lead-acid batteries generate electricity by using lead plates surrounded by sulfuric acid.  Along with electricity, this double sulfate reaction also produces lead sulfate. 


Car Battery Charger

How to Recondition a Battery - Sulfation is the Enemy of Lead-Acid Type Batteries


Normally in a healthy battery, the lead sulfate is converted back to lead and sulfuric acid when it is recharged.  But in an older battery, or one that's been discharged for a long period of time, the lead sulfate changes to a crystalline form.  It then coats the lead plates of the battery and reduces the capacity of the battery.  This process is known as sulfation, and is a normal occurrence in lead-acid batteries.  It's also one of the most common reasons that these batteries fail.



How to Recondition a Battery - Sulfation is the Enemy of Lead-Acid Type Batteries

How to Recondition a Battery - Sulfation is the Enemy of Lead-Acid Type Batteries


When sulfation happens, it causes a host of problems within the battery.  It's responsible for lowered capacity, longer recharge times, higher working temperatures, and increased corrosion.

The good news is that sulfation can often times be reversed.  A specialized battery charger that pulses a high current through the battery is often used.  This allows the crystalline lead sulfate to be broken down and turned back into lead and sulfuric acid, thus cleaning the lead plates and regaining charge capacity.

So before you throw that battery away, you should look into battery reconditioning as a way to save it.  And if you're interested, you can also earn a substantial amount of money by reconditioning free dead batteries, and then reselling them.  A very small investment for a very large return!

How to Recondition a Battery - Sulfation is the Enemy of Lead-Acid Type Batteries






Car Battery Charger

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Car Battery Trickle Charger

Car Battery Trickle Charger


You want to store your car, or RV, but you know that when you go to start your vehicle after it's been sitting for a few weeks or months, that your battery will be dead.

Car Battery Trickle Charger

Car Battery Trickle Charger

Car Battery Trickle Charger


Car Battery Trickle Charger



Car Battery Trickle Charger

The car battery trickle charger is specifically designed for the maintenance of 12 Volt batteries that are used periodically or kept in storage for extended periods.

The normal self-discharge of a battery is prevented when using a car battery trickle charger. In addition, the life of rechargeable 12 volt batteries is extended by providing a minimum current, regulated output.

Low quality chargers will produce a strong, rapid charge that often will decay electrodes and boil out liquids. We strongly recomMend purchasing a charger that; once your battery has been fully charged, it will automatically shut-off and then resume charging as your battery level drops. Also, check to make sure the charger you buy is specifically designed for longterm use. You want to be able to safely leave it connected to your battery for days, weeks, months, even years!

More important tips for vehicle storage:

Gas up

Air carries moisture with it and that will result in condensation in the tank. To reduce this as much as possible make sure the tank is as full as it can be. This will reduce the condensation and considerably lessen the amount of water in the gas and the injection system. Get a gasoline stabilizer such as Stabil and put this in before filling the tank. You will need to run the engine for a while to ensure that the stabilized gas has penetrated the enTire injection system.

Change the oil Filter and the oil

The contaminants in old oil will corrode the insides of your engine so it's important to put fresh oil and a new Filter in the car.

Over-inflate Tires

Inflate automobile tire to approximately 40 or 45 psi. Modern radial tires aren't known to have problems with flat spotting from storage. Still, some people suggest that you roll the car a little every 2 weeks or so. It is strongly recomMended that you don't jack the vehicle up and rotate the tires because when you lower the car the suspension will be loaded up. Try and check the pressure of the tires every few weeks or so and Watch for slow leaks.

Some say that the suspension will sag by putting the car up on jacks. Letting it sit on the ground for the few months shouldn't lead to any problems.

Clean the vehicles interior

When it comes time to take your vehicle out of storage you won't clean it. You may not want to clean it before you put it in storage but when you take it out you simply won't do it. So, take some time and get everything really clean. Clean the carpets. Clean the glass, inside and out. Clean behind the pedal cluster. Clean and condition the leather. You'll be surprised at the dirt you'll find. Clean all the nooks and crannies. Also, don't forget to also clean the trunk, etc. There is a full season of dirt and junk in the vehicle that you're not going to want to carry into the next season. Moth balls and a bag or two of the silica gel inside the car (which absorbs any moisture in the Air) are excellent preventative measures.

Wash the vehicle

Dust and dirt are corrosive to any paint Job so to ensure a longer life it's important when storing to not leave those eleMents on the vehicle, but take care not to put it away wet. This can be challenging if you want to use the vehicle right up to wet or Snow season. You should never put your car away wet because rust will form everywhere the water collects. You'll want to try anticipating the weather and cleaning the car and driving it a little to dry it out before storage. Then it will be necessary to get the dust off before storing it with a wipe down with wet/damp towels followed drying it with towels. Another option is one of the "quick detailer sprays" available at many auto parts stores.

Wax car

This is recommended but it may be difficult to get in a good waxing of the car depending on the temperature when you are preparing to store it. A good quality of wax will be too difficult to apply in low temperatures.

Condition the rubber parts

Many of the brand name products for treating rubber put on greasy coatings of silicon (Silicon isn't good for paint) or tend to build up over time and actually make the trim look worse. Use a good rubber conditioner to preserve all the trim.

Clean the wheels

Brake dust is highly corrosive and it's not good to have it sitting on your wheels for weeks or months at a time. To do the most thorough Job remove the wheels from the car, clean them on the outside and inside.

Cover Openings

Sealing up the exhaust tips will help to prevent rust inside the exhaust system. Close the heater vents and any other openings. Every 2 weeks or so, it's probably a good idea to make a periodic inspection. Check if any leaks developed or if any mice are nesting.

Engine Storage

Spray WD 40 into cylinders

Take out spark Plugs

Spray WD 40 into Air intakes

Turn over the engine by hand with wrench a couple of times

Every three months repeat this (except the spark Plugs which will no longer be in the engine)

To change the wheel bearing position, every three months turn wheels, or move car into different location

And for manual transmissions shift into one gear and move gear box internal around

Every six months drive the vehicle.

Starting the vehicle

There are differing views on whether starting a vehicle periodically while it is in storage is a good idea. Starting the engine puts considerable thermal stress on parts which are often in cold temperatures. The majority of engine wear occurs in the first few minutes when a car has been started because the oil is still in the oil pan and not lubricating the engine. In cold weather the engine may not get hot enough to burn off the moisture, acids, etc. the car is creating while running. This contaminates the clean oil. If you are going to store your car for a really long time then it needs to be run periodically to keep it operable.

Car Battery Trickle Charger

Thursday, August 30, 2012

Checking and Charging Motorcycle Batteries

Checking and Charging Motorcycle Batteries


How are Motorcycle Batteries Rated?

Checking and Charging Motorcycle Batteries

Checking and Charging Motorcycle Batteries

Checking and Charging Motorcycle Batteries


Checking and Charging Motorcycle Batteries



Checking and Charging Motorcycle Batteries

The amp/hour (AH) capacity is the basis for rating motorcycle batteries. For example, a 12AH battery can produce one amp of current flow for 12 hours, or two amps for six hours. In order to calculate the amount of time needed to use up a fully charged motorcycle battery by turning the lights on, we have to take power in watts, and divide it by volTAGe, which gives us the current draw in Amps. Therefore, a 72 watts beam and tail together, divided by 12 volts equals a 6-amp draw. So in 2 hours, the 12AH battery is dead.

Checking Motorcycle Battery:

If you decide to check if your new motorcycle battery is done correctly, follow this actual factory-recomMended service procedure.

If the battery is not a maintenance-free type which doesn't have a vent tube, unwrap the battery, unkink the vent tube and snip about a half-inch off the end. Fill it with electrolyte midway (between the high and low level markings on the case) and leave it undisturbed for one or two hours. Remember, the battery will still be at only 65% of full charge at this point. Add electrolyte again if required.

If your battery is a refillable lead-antimony type, it should be charged at one-third of its rated capacity in amp/hours for four to five hours to get it to full charge. Maintenance-free type battery should be charged with a constant-current charger that can drive the charge with as much as 16.9 volts. This should be closely supervised so as not to exceed full charge.

Next, recheck the electrolyte level and add water if required. Let the battery cool so the case contracts enough to fit into its typically tight little holder. Run the new breather tube, if the battery comes along with one, carefully through the original factory routing.

Things to Remember when Charging the Battery:

1. First of all, it is important to remember that Red is positive and Black is negative in order to avoid any accidents such as short-circuits and nasty shocks.

2. The charger should be compatible with the motorcycle battery, and give a greater output than the battery volTAGe but not too high.

3. Make sure the connections are clean and the electrolyte is at the upper level, and don't fill the cells up to the very top of the battery.

4. You can either use an optimizer on the battery which can effectively switch off the battery when it's charged and prevents overheating, or disconnect it manually.

5. It is recomMended to put your battery on charge every two or three weeks.

6. An upper and lower level battery should have all the cells on the upper level, not over and never under the lower level.

7. For topping off the low cells, use only distilled water.

8. The minimum charge for a new batter should be at least for 8 hours.

9. If you have a dry battery, fill the cells slowly and leave the battery for around half an hour.

Checking and Charging Motorcycle Batteries

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Starter Clicks But Engine Does Not Turn Over-Tech in Trunk?

Starter Clicks But Engine Does Not Turn Over-Tech in Trunk?


If the car's starter clicks and the engine does not turn over, this could be caused by several things. The most common cause of clicking when the car is being started is a low battery. Most people would assume that the starter is bad if it only clicks, but low-volTAGe can cause the starter to make this sound.

Starter Clicks But Engine Does Not Turn Over-Tech in Trunk?

Starter Clicks But Engine Does Not Turn Over-Tech in Trunk?

Starter Clicks But Engine Does Not Turn Over-Tech in Trunk?


Starter Clicks But Engine Does Not Turn Over-Tech in Trunk?



Starter Clicks But Engine Does Not Turn Over-Tech in Trunk?

The battery is the heart of the starting and electrical system. If the battery has been drained or has a weak cell, this can cause the starter to only click. Many times the battery could just been drained due to a door left slightly open, making the dome light stay on. Other times a vanity light or a phone charger could be left on. During my time as a master auto technician, I've had a trustworthyco-worker close me up in the trunk so I could make sure the trunk light went off when the trunk was closed!

In order to test the battery, it must have a good charge. If the battery is not charged completely the tester will indicate that it needs to be charged before testing can proceed. The first step when checking the starter and electrical system is to make sure the battery is in good condition. Most parts stores will check batteries for free. Once it's determined the battery is good the rest of the system can then be checked. Loose or corroded connections can also cause a clicking and for the car not to start.

Starter

The starter solenoid on many Ford vehicle's is on the inner fender well, on most othervehicles the starter solenoid will be mounted on the starter. The clicking that is heard many times is the solenoid. But low-volTAGe either from a drained battery, bad battery, or poor connections can cause this. Most of the time if the vehicle can be jump started the starter is okay. This would also indicate that the connections to the starter are good.

Alternator

Once the vehicle is running the alternator output can be checked. If the alternator is not charging the battery, it will be drained during the process of starting the car and driving. When the alternator is checked, the voltage and amperage output can be measured. Also the diode pattern will be checked to make sure the alternator won't drain the> battery when the engine is turned off. In the past do-it-yourselfers could disconnect the battery while the vehicle is running to check the alternator, if the car kept running the alternator was good. Doing this on Computerized vehicles can be harmful. If the battery is disconnected while a Computerized vehicle is running the alternator output can increase sharply allowing excess voltage to spike the computer.

Battery

When purchasing a replaceMent battery, the cold cranking amps required for the vehicle should be checked. It's best to purchase a battery with more cold cranking amps than the minimum required. Also when purchasing a battery you should consider if you want maintenancefree or not. If the battery is hard to access or has a cover then a maintenance free battery is preferred. For instance on some Chrysler Sebrings and Chevrolet Corvettes the battery is located behind an inner fender and on a Chevrolet SSR. the battery is located underneath the bed where the spare Tire would normally go. If installing the battery yourself be sure to notice which side is positive and negative in case you were sold the incorrect battery.

Terminals

Starter Clicks But Engine Does Not Turn Over-Tech in Trunk?

Sunday, June 24, 2012

Golf Cart Battery Basics

Golf Cart Battery Basics


Golf cart batteries are the life-force behind your electric golf cart.

Golf Cart Battery Basics

Golf Cart Battery Basics

Golf Cart Battery Basics


Golf Cart Battery Basics



Golf Cart Battery Basics

Golf carts run off of what are called deep-cycle batteries. Although they look similar to normal car batteries, deep cycle batteries serves a completely different purpose. While both are lead-acid based, deep-cycle batteries provide a steady current over a long period of time, whereas car batteries provide a very large current over a short period of time. This is because golf carts, like other electric vehicles, derive all their power from their batteries.

One battery is not enough to run a golf cart. Instead, they use battery packs that consist of multiple batteries. Individual golf cart batteries usually come in 6-volts or 8-volts. The combined total of the volTAGefrom each battery makes up the total golf cart volTAGe. For instance, a 36-volt golf cart probably has six 6-volt batteries. And a 48-volt golf cart probably has either eight 6-volt batteries or six 8-volt batteries. And as you can probably guess, the higher the volTAGe the longer the run time and the greater the power.

If your batteries aren't charged, however, it doesn't matter how many volts your battery pack has, it's still not going to run. The type of golf cart charger you would need depends on the total number of volts your battery pack has. A 36V golf cart requires a 36 volt charger, and a 48V golf cart requires a 48 volt charger. If you have a 36V golf cart and later decide to upgrade to a 48V golf cart by adding twoadditional 6V batteries, you can either purchase an additional 12V charger for two new batteries, or you can replace your 36V charger with a 48V charger, just so long as the volTAGe from the charger corresponds with the voltage of the batteries.

To keep your golf cart running strong you're going to want to charge your batteries after every use. Most new chargers are fully automated, which means they regulate the current so that you do not over-charge your batteries. If you have an older golf cart charger that is not fully automated you would want to set a timer to shut off the charger after your cart is fully charged. A good rule of thumb is to charge it for at least twice as long as you drove it.

Golf Cart Battery Basics

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

The Best Cell Phone Signal Boosters

The Best Cell Phone Signal Boosters


You have a cell phone and now want to accessorize it with the latest cell phone technologies. You have already purchased a Bluetooth, so now the next big purchase on your list is a cell phone signal booster. Your cell carrier isn't the best, and you've noticed that your reception could be clearer. You want more bars when you need them. Cell signal boosters are made to enhance the quality of your outgoing and incoming calls. You will have more bars, like up to two extra, and your cell range will be larger. When using a booster you will receive phone calls in areas that were not able to receive calls in before. In some cases using a booster also improved the sound quality of calls.

The Best Cell Phone Signal Boosters

The Best Cell Phone Signal Boosters

The Best Cell Phone Signal Boosters


The Best Cell Phone Signal Boosters



The Best Cell Phone Signal Boosters The Best Cell Phone Signal Boosters

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

How to Start a Scooter the First Time

How to Start a Scooter the First Time


The scooter was received and assembled, now finally to the long awaited moMent, starting the scooter. The urge to stick the key in the hole, press the button and hear the engine purr is close to irresistible ...

How to Start a Scooter the First Time

How to Start a Scooter the First Time

How to Start a Scooter the First Time


How to Start a Scooter the First Time



How to Start a Scooter the First Time

But it must be resisted. Though above may sound ideal, is not the case. Imagine a car that was parked for six months; it may not start at first try. In this case we are talking about a scooter that may have been sitting for 6 or more months in addition to having travelled by sea for 2 or 3 weeks; salty marine carburetors love fresh Air.

This article aims at guiding first time scooter owners to properly start their scooter without blowing anything out.

Dos and Don'ts:

1. If the scooter is 150cc or 50, don't try the electric start; at first kickstart only
2. Do not, under any circumstance, try to jump start the scooter
3. Avoid using a charger. The engine will recharge the battery when it is started. If a charger is used, insure it is a motorcycle charger set to no more than 2 amps
4. If the scooter is equipped with an alarm, do not try the alarm or the remote start until the scooter started
5. Buy the most expensive fuel and fill the gas tank all the way up
6. Do not use any fuel additives or carburetor logo cleaner solution
7. Once the scooter is started, be ready to ride it for at least 15 minutes to charge the battery -letting the engine charge the battery is by far the best

Remember that a new battery is very fragile. If it runs all the waydown, it may get damaged as well as permanent damage other components such as the fuse, volTAGe regulator and/or the CDI unit. In order to protect the battery and the other components, all 50cc and 150cc scooters should be first started with the kick start then try the electric start a couple times as described below.

Since most 250cc scooters don't have a kick start, 250cc scooter owners should follow the electric start procedures.

Kick start procedure:

1. Fill the gas tank all the way up with the best gasoline available
2. Put the bike on the center stand
3. Check that the kill switch is pointed towards the circle, not the X
4. If the scooter came with remote, click the UNLOCK two consecutive times
5. Turn the key to the on position
6.Accelerate all the way and keep throttle open of 1 second, repeat 3 times
7. Unfold the kick-start; gently push it down with your foot half way
8. Let the kick start as back up
9. Kick the kick start 3 or 4 times vigorously in a row making sure the starter goes all the way down and comes all the way back up every time
10. Then keep on accelerating all the way (step 6) and kicking all the way a few times (step 9)
11. Do not accelerate while kicking

Try the electric start only AFTER having tried to start the bike as described above with the kick-start.

Electric start procedure:

1. Follow steps 1 to 6 in the kick-start procedures above
2. Hold the rear brake
3. Gently turn the accelerator to pickup the slack; do not accelerate, just hold theslack
4. Press the start button for 3 seconds and let go
5. Accelerate all the way and let go, hold any slack in the throttle
6. Press the start button for 3 seconds and let go
7. Let the electric start motor cool down for 30 or 40 seconds and repeat the steps above one more time.

Overheating the electric start motor may also damage the scooter by blowing the starter motor, the fuse and other electrical parts.

If the bike did not start, do not try the electric start procedures more than 2 times; rather go back to the kick start procedures and repeat it 2 or 3 times. It may take a few tries, most bikes start at the 2nd or 3rd try.

If all else fail:

Some scooters my have a hard time starting. This may be due to several factors. In 90% of the cases, thefailure to start is due to no or insufficient fuel getting to the carburetor logo. The simplest way to check and cure this, is to prime the carburetor logo manually:

1. Open the seat
2. Unscrew the access panel screw carburetor logo (usually a single screw)
3. Remove the access panel and locate the carburetor logo
4. The top of The carburetor logo looks like a metal dome with 2 screws holding it
5. Remove the 2 screws from the top of the carburetor logo
6. Put 3 to 4 spoonfuls of gasoline directly inside the carburetor logo
7. Replace the top of the carburetor logo and secure with the 2 screws
8. Follow the electric start procedure only if it was not followed more than 3 times; otherwise kick-start

How to Start a Scooter the First Time

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